Yet Another Reason To Eat Chocolate...

Here's some good news for chocoholics! After reading this article, I feel even more justified in my decision to order that large dark chocolate gelato at Cones (see below post).

Cones

On Blackout Thursday, I was struck by a mortal craving for the dark chocolate gelato at Cones. Alas, I was in the thick of the crowd on the Brooklyn Bridge, inching towards home. I could only daydream about this cold, creamy treat made with three kinds of Dutch and German chocolate. I thought of Cones' fresh homemade whipped cream and visualized the glass case full of scrumptious flavors. Although my heart belongs to the dark chocolate gelato, I also enjoy the chocolate almond and dulce de leche varieties. Needless to say, when the lights came back on, I made a beeline for Cones.

Cones: 272 Bleecker St., (212) 414-1795. Open till 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays!

Quartino

Most of the mahogany-paneled restaurants downtown are billed as having been open since 1600, and they specialize in giant steaks seemingly aged since then. Therefore, it is refreshing to walk into the high-ceilinged, airy Quartino, a Ligurian restaurant tucked away below the Brooklyn Bridge exit ramp. I never expected to find such an oasis of charm just one block away from South Street!

Quartino bottles its own wine, makes its own pasta, and buys fresh fish from the Seaport every day. Chef Ivo Rossi is passionate about his peppery Ligurian olive oil and his organic crusty bread. I ate so much of this bread today that I worried about finishing my entrée. No matter, I inhaled the al dente fettucini with sweet cherry tomatoes, strips of basil and melted chunks of mozzarella in a split second. (Other pastas on the menu include vegetable ravioli in walnut sauce and pappardelle al pesto.) If you want something lighter, there are panini, pizzas and a salad of Sicilian tuna, string beans and potatoes. (Of course, if you want something heavier, by all means order the moist bittersweet chocolate cake!)

There have been so many times when I've unsuccessfully roamed the Seaport in search of something yummy. From now on, I'll head straight over to the corner of Peck Slip and Water Street!

Quartino: 21 Peck Slip, (212) 349-4433. Look for the umbrellas.

An Exquisite Evening: Dinner at Sushi Yasuda, Dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar

I wish every night could be as wonderful as this one. Tonight, my companion and I feasted on innumerable varieties of fish at Sushi Yasuda, then continued the feast with a three-course dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar.

Sushi Yasuda, named for its chef, is a shrine to the art of sushi. The sushi menu is categorized by the type of fish. There are five kinds of eel and seven cuts of tuna alone! Every night, Chef Yasuda circles his personal recommendations on the a la carte menu.

We began with a couple of intriguing seafood appetizers that we hadn't seen elsewhere: chunks of fried tuna in a light starchy batter, and flash-fried eel backbones. The latter were vaguely reminiscent of cracklings and had that same addictive property. We then tried some of the special fish of the evening: charred, sweet barbecued white eel, medium-fatty tuna that almost fell apart with tenderness, and wild salmon roe that were deliciously salty and fresh. Some other establishments serve pre-packaged eel and sugary roe; it is difficult not to be spoiled by the high quality at Sushi Yasuda.

Although some diners opt for the omakase (chef's choice), Sushi Yasuda also lets the diner choose the fish for his sushi or sashimi dinner. I like rich, oily fish, so I ordered mackerel, salmon, Spanish mackerel, kampachi (a type of yellowtail) and butterfish. Five piles of heaven!

After a mug of brown tea, it was time to cab it over to the East Village for dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar, which opened just two weeks ago.

ChikaLicious is like your best friend's kitchen, if your best friend just happens to be a gourmet chef. As you sit expectantly at the marble countertop, you can watch Chef Chika zest a lemon over a bowl of slivered almonds in preparation for her delicious almond florentines. I was so fascinated by her activity that it took me a second to focus on the amuse bouche: a spoonful of brown sugar panna cotta marked with a roasted pistachio. A second treat soon appeared: a glass of yogurt sorbet with kiwi slices soaked in a sweet lavender syrup. The sugar focused my concentration, and I realized that I needed to try the chocolate baba au rhum with whipped cream and strawberry salad. It was impossible to resist the sight of all those small chocolate puffed cakes! The warm chocolate tart called to my companion. Everything was so delicious that it took us about two minutes to devour it all. But dessert was not yet over! A plate of beautiful petits fours soon arrived: homemade coconut marshmallows, chocolate basil truffles, and the afore-mentioned almond florentines. I think I'll go back tomorrow.

Sushi Yasuda: 204 E. 43rd St., (212) 972-1001 . Chikalicious Dessert Bar: 203 E. 10th St., (212) 995-9511.

New York's Most Decadent Sandwich

You are probably thinking of the corned beef at Katz's Deli. Instead, try to picture two thick slices of grilled chocolate bread oozing with melted Belgian chocolate chips, chocolate syrup and Nutella. Add banana slices, whipped cream and raspberries to the image. Where can you find this strange, yet wonderful concoction? At the Museum Of Natural History's temporary "Chocolate Cafe". Make sure to get there by the end of August!

Chocolate Cafe: American Museum of Natural History, Central Park West and 79th St., (212) 769-5000.

Klatch (CLOSED 4/09)

With great fanfare, my afternoon sweets craving announced its arrival. For the life of me, I could not decide whether I wanted a coconut doughnut from the Doughnut Plant or an orange brioche from the Balthazar Bakery. I calculated the walking distance to both places; a more difficult calculation was the relative strength of each desire. Fortunately, due to the recent opening of Klatch, I didn't need to make a choice! Only four months old, this adorable little coffee bar offers the best of both worlds: a selection of the Doughnut Plant's superlative handmade doughnuts and Balthazar's croissants, cookies and scones. I recommend accompanying all of this with a mug of Klatch's wonderful dark roast coffee, which is made with Porto Rico Importing Co. beans.

Klatch: 9-11 Maiden Lane, (212) 227-7276.

National Eel Day

The Japanese holiday which honors the eel fell on July 26 this year. The rich, tasty fish is supposed to revitalize you during the hot summer. For those of you who forgot to celebrate on Saturday, some Japanese restaurants in NYC are offering a special eel lunch today. Chikubu (CLOSED as of 4/07) will serve its annual $4.50 unagi lunch special (you may have to wait in line). Ise is offering a delicious double portion of eel over rice; finish one eel and a layer of rice only to discover another eel underneath!

Chikubu: 12 E. 44th St., (212) 818-0715. Ise: 56 Pine St., (212) 785-7660.

Nana

Monday is a dark day for sushi lovers in Park Slope. Blue Ribbon Sushi is closed, the door that leads to Gingko Leaf's Japanese garden paradise is locked (Closed as of 2004), and Geido's sushi bar is empty of rollicking patrons sharing bottles of Kirin. Last night, my friend and I wandered down 7th Avenue, mournfully listing options that were unavailable to us.

In frustration, my friend suggested getting Italian food. At that moment, a light went on in my head in the shape of the neon sign at Nana on 5th Avenue. I vaguely remembered appreciating the grilled salmon at this stylish pan-Asian, but I'd always satisfied my sushi cravings elsewhere. However, since there is nothing so uncomfortable as an unsatisfied longing for tuna sashimi, we decided to give Nana a try.

The yellowtail ceviche appetizer was a good omen: a colorful confetti of julienned red onions, peppers and carrots and small pieces of fish in a light soy vinaigrette. Well-salted edamame soon followed, and then it was time for the sashimi! My platter was a generous assortment of about 20 pieces of octopus, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, snapper, and scallop. I breathed a sigh of relief as the sushi beast was (temporarily) kept at bay.

Nana: 155 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-3749.

Raw New York

Every so often, interesting requests randomly appear in the SalliVates.com mailbox. Recently, I've been asked to locate "yogurt pucks", to procure a list of sea salt distributors, and to go on a date. Although I haven't been able to fulfill these particular requests, I am about to gladden the heart of a California reader. Her E-mail of last week was so intriguing that I felt compelled to rise to her challenge:

"Dear Salli,

I am a raw-food vegan who will be visiting NYC for the first time. I eat fruits, nuts, vegetables and sprouted grains, but no meats, dairy products or foods heated above 118 degrees. Are there any places I can eat?"

After verifying that the writer was serious (how does one live without chocolate and fondue?), I set off on a mission to see if she could find nourishment in New York.

First, I walked over to Eat Raw, a store which trumpets its cause right in the name. In addition to offering natural skin care products, Eat Raw sells crackers, cookies, nut butters, dried fruit and walnut-tahini "truffles". Unfortunately, I found the onion "Essene" bread and apple crunch bars very difficult to chew. I had better luck with the "Raweos", which tasted more like macaroons than Oreos (and that's a good thing).

Next, I took the F train to the East Village and strode into Live Live, where the proprietor was astonishingly thin! Looking at him, I immediately craved a huge plate of fettucini alfredo, but I squelched the urge (I was on a mission, remember) and bought a $6 package of "mac & cheese" instead. This concoction was a bar of macadamia nuts, kale, and red pepper; disturbingly, it was somewhat reminiscent of macaroni and cheese. I was reminded of astronaut food, and indeed, one of the brands offered at Live Live is "Moon Foods".

Next door to Live Live is NYC's only raw foods chain: Quintessence. With three locations, Quintessence has been detoxifying New Yorkers since 1999. Their philosophy is: "Treat your body like a temple and it will be heaven again." (Personally, I find it pretty easy to feel heavenly; I just pop a Knipschildt truffle into my mouth.)

I invited an adventurous companion to Quintessence for a raw foods adventure. We began our meal with the vegetable chowder, a delicious green puree thickened with nuts. The cold soup was perfect for the summertime. We were then to find that "raw" doesn't necessarily mean "quick"; our stomachs growled as we waited for our entrees. Our waitress patiently explained that my squash "spaghetti" was in the dehydrator. When it finally arrived, the "spaghetti" al pesto was interspersed with tasty marinated mushrooms and sundried tomatoes, but I couldn't get past the crunchy vegetal texture of the "pasta". My companion ordered the "round-the-world" platter: a sampling of hummus and falafel, malai kofta, "ravioli", a Japanese hand roll and a salad. The sunflower-seed pate in the hand roll played the role of a tuna tartare filling, and the raw hummus was actually very good, if a bit grainy.

Naturally, the highlight for me was dessert: a coconut cream pie had a sweet nut crust, and it was festively drizzled with carob syrup in an approximation of chocolate sauce. No, carob is not chocolate, but at least it looks like it.

(I am ashamed to admit that I ended the evening with a trip to Il Gelatone.)

Eat Raw: 426 15th St., Brooklyn, (718) 210-0048. Live Live, 261 E. 10th St., (212) 505-5504. Quintessence: 263 E. 10th St., (646) 654-1804.

Chocolate Tastings At The Museum Of Natural History

Here's an educational way to sweeten up your weekends throughout the summer.

Brunch At Paradou (Closed as of 1/31/04)

Yesterday, I awoke with a craving for crepes. As the morning wore on, I also developed an intense craving for chocolate truffles (an almost daily occurrence). Fortunately, I was able to satisfy both desires in one place: the new Paradou in Park Slope.

Our savory whole-wheat crepes (ham, Comte cheese and egg with a hint of Dijon mustard, and smoked salmon with lemon creme fraiche and asparagus) were gigantic and generous with filling. The crepes were folded over to make room for refreshing green salads.

Not once in my life have I been able to resist ordering a dessert crepe when I see one on the menu. It was easy to succumb to the temptation at Paradou, which offers six sweet varieties. Since I was with fellow chocolate lovers, we shared the chocolate creme de menthe (a light, eggy crepe filled with melted dark chocolate and doused with mint syrup) and the sugar-sprinkled Nutella banana.

At this point I was quite full, but I mustered up all of my remaining appetite for the Joel Durand truffles, for which Paradou is the exclusive U.S. distributor. The complex flavors of these exotic treats rivaled those of Bernard Callebaut and Jacques Torres. I was especially impressed by the herbal green cardamom, the Corsican bitter honey, and the salted butter caramel. On future visits, I plan to try the entire collection!

Paradou: 426 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-5557. For Manhattanites, the original location is 8 Little West 12th St., (212) 463-8345.

Pearl Oyster Bar

The blazing sun heralded the arrival of summer after weeks of rain. Naturally, my thoughts turned to lobster rolls. Since I was not able to go to the beach, I took the F train to the West Village and walked into the much-beloved Pearl Oyster Bar. However, once inside the shellfish mecca, I became distracted by the various delicacies which competed for my attention. Jumbo lump crabcakes, fried oyster rolls... the embarrassment of riches overwhelmed me. After much soul-searching, I finally decided on a golden-brown pan-fried cod fillet on thick toasted bread with caper tartar sauce, red onion and ripe tomato, served with a heap of toothpick-thin shoestring fries. When I remarked upon the capers in the tartar sauce, the friendly waitress offered, "If you want the recipe, you'll find it in this new book just released by chef Rebecca Charles!" I glanced at the blueberry crumble pie recipe; now I can't wait until the blueberries are in season!

Pearl Oyster Bar: 18 Cornelia Street, (212) 691-8211.

Alice's Tea Cup

Is the constant rain getting you down? Shake the rain off your umbrella and walk down a couple steps to the warm and inviting Alice's Tea Cup. Pour yourself a pot of exotic vanilla-scented Mauritius tea or Red Fruits Indian tea flavored with strawberry, raspberry, red currant and cherry. Then you'll be ready for a flaky and buttery fresh-baked scone served with raspberry jam and clotted cream (I especially appreciate the strawberry scones). Or if you'd like something savory, bite into a mustardy tuna salad sandwich. If you bring friends under the age of two, they will appreciate the daily homemade pureed baby food. If you'd like to postpone your reentry into the puddle that passes for Manhattan these days, take a moment to admire all of the tea-oriented gifts up front (lovely teapots and toiletries like "Body Tea").

Alice's Tea Cup: 102 West 73rd St., (212) 799-3006.

How Much Do I Love NYC?

Let me count the calories...

Finally, Good Pizza In Park Slope!

Last night my companion and I decided to take a walk down 5th Ave. in Brooklyn. We were hungry for something Italian, but we didn't want to pull out all the stops at Al Di La. I made a mental list of the casual dining options in the area and realized that I would probably have to settle for a sandwich. However, as we began to walk in the direction of Press 195, I noticed a large and bustling restaurant on the right side of the street. Drawing closer, I saw a counter overflowing with large pizza pies and a sign that said "La Villa".

Apparently, the new Park Slope location of this Howard Beach pizzeria is the only one with a wood-burning oven, and some of the results are comparable to Nick's in Forest Hills: the crisp and textured crust provides the foundation for a toothsome combination of thinly sliced fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, herbs and olive oil. Both thin (Napoletana) and thick-crusted (Siciliana) varieties of pizza are available. I could not believe our good luck as I bit into a garlicky focaccia di nonna, or "grandma's pizza", which I preferred to the blander margherita. My companion and I also split a large plate of fried zucchini and an order of penne with sauteed spinach. On my next visit, which should be within the week, I shall either try one of the grilled panini or the sottosopra, an "upside-down" pizza with layers of homemade mozzarella baked under the sauce. If you beat me to it, please feel free to E-mail me a report!

La Villa: 261 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-9888.

How To Prevent A Food Fight

Apparently, criminal charges may be filed against a group of food-hurling students. The news reports do not specify which foods were being thrown, but I imagine that they weren't particularly tasty. However, a new approach to school food could provide a solution to the problem of projectile pizza.

A Delightful Weekday Breakfast

I decided to prolong the relaxation of my vacation with a leisurely breakfast at 'ino. Their breakfast menu offers several variations on the theme of eggs and bread: truffled egg toast, bruschetta topped with scrambled eggs and either asparagus or pancetta, and my personal favorite: egg and fontina with caramelized onions on grilled ciabatta from Blue Ribbon Bakery. A glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice, a strong latte and a glance at the paper completed my transition back into the rhythms of NYC.

'ino: 21 Bedford St., (212) 989-5769

A Note From The Road

For those of you who feel that sweets are a philosophy, here is an exhibit I have just attended that may be of interest to you. (After three weeks of Canadian ice wine, Saskatoon berries and wild Pacific salmon, I shall fly back to New York on Sunday.)

Ah...Vacation!

Your partner in gluttony will be away for three weeks. However, you can still salivate over these archives! While you are doing so, you might want to munch on one of Payard's chocolate almond cakes. Ta ta!

Jewel Bako

"We have some OUTSTANDING fish tonight!" enthused Jack Lamb, the owner of sushi nirvana Jewel Bako. Sitting in the small gilt and bamboo-appointed room, my companion and I exchanged a look of anticipation. After briefly perusing the menu, we decided to go with the chef's choice (omakase), which ended up being ten courses of utter delight!

First up was a small "gift from the chef" of grated daikon, salmon roe and a tiny shiso leaf. This was served with Yatsushiku sake, which tasted to me of caramel. We also sampled the Cherry Blossom sake, a lighter variety, and the intense "Dragon's Quivering Tongue", described by Lamb as "diabolical". (Throughout the evening, we delighted in listening to Lamb's wealth of information; he is a walking encyclopedia of Japanese food and culture. Who knew that there were over 2,000 kinds of sake in Japan?)

We then enjoyed a refreshing salad of wild greens and green tea noodles in a light soy dressing garnished with pine nuts and shimeji mushrooms. A gorgeous cylinder of tuna tartare was next, then a foil package of three types of steam-roasted Japanese mushrooms.

Next up was our first taste of what makes Jewel Bako a local legend. An extraordinary sashimi course included three kinds of yellowtail, baby firefly squid with a sweet miso dip, red snapper and live shrimp ("Just tickle it and it wiggles," joked Lamb). Everything was at the peak of freshness; I could have been at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo.

A clear soup tasted mildly of bonito and featured two crumbly yellowtail "meatballs" and tart strips of citrus zest.

Finally, it was time for the piece de resistance: an oblong plate dotted with 11 pieces of sushi! Among the standouts were: fresh sea eel as rich as liver (never will I eat that microwaved barbecued eel ever again), the ultimate belly of fatty tuna, a sweet clam, lightly seared Japanese black bass, salty white salmon, Kyoto-style pressed sushi, and the chef's special: jack mackerel tartare with spicy baby ginger under a peelaway shiso leaf. Every bite was so delicious that I had to close my eyes.

As if that weren't enough, we were in for three dessert courses: a rich, floral coconut lychee sorbet, a special pastry from Payard which was a teardrop of green tea cake filled with strawberry jam and topped with vanilla mousse, and some crunchy peanut cookies from Kyoto with organic Yamaguchi plum wine.

The courses were spread out so that we had an opportunity to bask in a Zen-like appreciation of every dish. Each edible landscape of colors and textures was presented to us on a plate of a different shape. Jewel Bako's aesthetic, combined with its absolute passion for freshness and attention to detail, made for a top-notch sushi experience!

Jewel Bako: 239 E. 5th St., (212) 979-1012.

Yonah Schimmel Knishery

Do you have a palate but no wallet? The humane folks at Yonah Schimmel Knishery will stuff you to the gills for less than the price of a round-trip Metrocard. For $2-3, you can inhale a giant, flaky knish overflowing with your choice of filling: traditional potato, oniony kasha, sweet potato, broccoli, jalapeno cheddar, or even pizza! And for those of your relatives who have the misfortune of not residing in NYC (or who refuse to leave the Upper East Side), Schimmel's will ship the luscious knishes anywhere in the continental US.

Yonah Schimmel Knishery: 137 E. Houston St., (212) 477-2858.

Afternoon Tea At The Mark Hotel (CLOSED)

Grandma immensely enjoyed our tea at Fauchon, so we decided to recreate the experience at The Mark Hotel. At The Mark, there are three varieties of afternoon tea: the Mandarin, which features Chinese tea and almond cookies baked to order, the Strawberry Cream Tea, which includes strawberries and Chantilly cream, and the traditional Afternoon Tea (our choice). Grandma was a huge fan of the chicken mousse tea sandwich and the smoked salmon on black bread. Also gracing our plates were thick slices of banana bread, tiny chocolate tarts, pineapple coconut cakes and homemade raisin scones with mascarpone cheese. (For the persnickety in our party, there was a bloody-rare burger with fries.) Generously, our waiter provided extra complimentary sandwiches and pots of Ceylon tea. If you would like to learn about the art of Chinese tea, you can still snag a spot at the June 6 class with with Tea Master Ringo Lo (call 212-879-1864 for information and reservations).

The Mark Hotel: 25 East 77th St., (212) 744-4300.

A Rainbow Of Marzipan

Some people buy the same shirt in several different colors; I just buy marzipan bars in different flavors. At Teuscher Chocolates Of Switzerland, foil-wrapped marzipan is color-coded by flavor: pink for raspberry, yellow for lemon, green for pistachio, blue for plain. I just bought one of each!

Teuscher Chocolates Of Switzerland: 620 5th Ave. at Rockefeller Center, (212) 246-4416.

Love In The Clouds

First cigarettes, now Oreos may eventually go the way of the dodo bird. However, you can still enjoy a nominally healthier version of the latter at the Two Little Red Hens bakery. Their cookie creation, enticingly named "Love In The Clouds", is a chocolate-pepper cookie sandwich with a layer of sugary vanilla cream in the middle.

Two Little Red Hens: 1652 Second Ave., (212) 452-0476.

Upcoming Event: Brittany Wine Dinner At Cocotte (CLOSED AS OF 2008)

After inhaling a molten chocolate cake at Cocotte this evening, I was reminded of some information that I meant to impart to you sooner:

The Prospect Wine Shop, in concert with Cocotte Restaurant, will be celebrating the cuisine of Brittany on Tuesday, May 6 with a special tasting dinner. The four-course meal, which features such delicacies as "Leg of Rabbit Braised in Breton Honey-and-Apple Liqueur, Bacon and Dried Plums, Served with Yukon Gold Purée" and "Seared Maine Diver Sea Scallops with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms in a Vermouth Herbed Cream Sauce," will be complemented by wines from the Loire Valley. For reservations, please call Christine at Cocotte: (718) 832-6848.

Cocotte Restaurant: 337 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 832-6848.

Attention: "Gustatory Athletes"

Were you always the last to be chosen for the kickball team? Do you primarily attend baseball games for the hot dogs and cotton candy? Don't despair, there's still a competitive sport for you.

Beyond Biscotti

The practice of accompanying a cappuccino with a cookie has been popularized by Starbucks, which sells overly sweet, prepackaged biscotti. Let me offer you some toothsome variations on the caffeine-and-sugar theme.

If you can tear your eyes from the pastries at Tarallucci E Vino, you will notice some very special glass jars near the cashier. One is filled with torroncini. This orange-scented, honey-sweetened delight is halfway between an almond nougat candy bar and a cookie. A touch of black pepper renders it irresistible and addictive, but if you'd like something with more crunch, try the pepatelli: long, cinnamon-y almond cookies topped with a layer of meringue.

(If you can't tear your eyes from the pastries, by all means, succumb. There are chocolate-filled donuts, coronets, blueberry coconut cakes, eclairs, chocolate mousse and much more.)

Some afternoons find me in the long line at Crestanello, waiting to order some amaretti (three for $1) or pignoli with my cappuccino. The round amaretti are soft in the center and sugar-dusted, and the coffee is proudly custom-blended. (Crestanello is a great choice for a quick Italian lunch without table service. The cafe even imports its own olive oil.) I am the woman sitting near the front who can't restrain herself from eating the cookies before her penne al pomodoro.

Tarallucci E Vino, 163 First Ave., (212) 388-1190. Crestanello Gran Caffe Italiano: 475 Fifth Ave., (212) 545-9996.

Japanese Sweets at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden

This weekend, celebrate the warmer weather with a Japanese pastry or three. Chef Motohiro Inaba of beloved tearoom Toraya will be providing a demonstration on the preparation of the festive Japanese sweets known as wagashi. You can see the artist at work on Saturday, April 26 from 12-1 p.m at the BBG's Alfred T. White Memorial Amphitheater. Japanese food and beverages will be available at the cherry esplanade from 11-5:30, and pastries will be sold on the rotunda from 1-5 p.m. (Afterword: The bento boxes were truly horrid, but Toraya lived up to its name with ginger-perfumed "moon cakes" stuffed with moist, sweet red bean jam.)

Brooklyn Botanic Garden: 1000 Washington Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-7200. Or, if you'd rather go straight to the source, the Toraya tearoom is located at 17 E. 71st St., (212) 861-1700.

Afternoon Tea at Fauchon (CLOSED)

My grandmother never leaves the house without lipstick and heels. Being quite the social creature, she thrives on her excursions, but the harsh weather has made it difficult for her to go out. Last week, the thermostat finally reached 50 degrees, so I decided to pamper her with an afternoon tea. I just needed to find a sufficiently elegant venue for such a lady.

I found the perfect solution in Fauchon, the condiment nirvana that houses a charming tearoom. With its comfortable chairs and attentive waiters, Fauchon is an oasis of civility.

The extensive tea menu is organized into such categories as Ceylon, Assam, Darjeeling, Chinese, Japanese, flavored and herbal. Although I was intrigued by the geranium and ylang-ylang, I settled on a fragrant Earl Grey with flowers. I never knew that a cup of tea could be so flavorful! My grandmother opted for French-pressed coffee with a flask of warmed cream.

We ordered an afternoon tea for two. (There is also an a la carte menu, which includes light meals such as salads, quiches, and soups.) Our trays overflowed with five different tea sandwiches (I liked the cucumber watercress and the crabmeat), small crackers topped with either foie gras or smoked salmon belly, and sweets galore: raspberry linzer cookies, hazelnut sables, moelleux in flavors of pignoli, hazelnut, and pecan, small orange and chocolate eclairs, slices of fruitcake, petits fours, the famous almond-flour macarons, and finally, chocolates! Chocolates with the Fauchon emblem in gold, chocolates with a layer of crunchy rock sugar.

After a satisfied final sip of coffee, my delighted grandmother purchased an entire box of pistachio, apple, and chocolate-raspberry macarons to take home! (I think she will be venturing out very soon to replenish her supply.)

Fauchon: 442 Park Ave., (212) 308-5919. (There is also a much smaller location at 1000 Madison Ave.)

Acqua Pazza (Closed in 2006)

I love simply prepared fresh fish; the salt-baked bass at Al Di La is always delectable, as are the whole fish at Esca, Teodora and Milos Estiatorio. However, I may have just encountered a dish that blows all others out of the (ahem) water!

Acqua pazza, the signature dish of the eponymous eatery, is a whole fish baked a bath of seawater, Sicilian sea salt, white wine and cherry tomatoes, and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. The saltwater preparation renders the fish absolutely moist and flavorful. According to proprietor Umberto Arpaia, acqua pazza, or "crazy water", is the creation of Neapolitan fishermen who wanted to make sure they had something tasty to eat in case they were stranded in rough seas. Before setting out on a journey, they would stock up on olive oil and cherry tomatoes. Necessity is thus the mother of perfection! Today's fish was sea bass, which was accompanied by a small plate of chard and potatoes. Other fish on the menu include salmon, swordfish and grilled yellowfin tuna with balsamic vinegar.

My companion and I began our meal by dipping our warm crusty bread into the white bean scallion spread, then dug into bowls of sedanini. These were ribbed tubes of pasta interspersed with basil, plum tomatoes, and eggplant, and topped with zesty salted ricotta. (On my next visit, I will have to try the intriguing tagliolini al caffe: espresso noodles with white shrimp and porcini mushrooms.)

After the afore-mentioned sea bass and a chicken paillard with mozzarella and tomato, a small plate of homemade cookies made their appearance. The sugar-dusted pistachio biscotti and small chocolate-dipped butter cookies were perfect with coffee, but we went the extra mile and ordered zuccotto, a dome of chocolate mousse with caramel and passionfruit coulis. Maybe next time we'll sample the baba (sponge cake) with a choice of Haitian, Anguillan or Puerto Rican rum, or the sinfonia, a trio of chocolate sorbet, flourless chocolate cake, and rich dark chocolate mousse. One thing is certain; I am now a perfect sailing companion, as my meal at Acqua Pazza has transformed me into a human flotation pillow.

Acqua Pazza: 36 W. 52nd St., (212) 582-6900.

Battle of the Brunches (Part 1)

This past weekend, I made it my business to brunch at two different French bistros in Brooklyn: Moutarde and Loulou. Although both have much to recommend them, Loulou (CLOSED AS OF 6/09) really claimed a corner of my heart (and more than a corner of my stomach).

At Moutarde, I appreciated the pain au chocolat and buttery croissants in the breadbasket. The orange juice is not fresh-squeezed, but the coffee is good and strong. The menu mostly consists of egg dishes such as omelettes and scrambled eggs with caramelized onions. I did enjoy my generously hollandaised salmon Eggs Benedict with mesclun greens and roasted potatoes; the English muffins were crisply toasted.

Loulou is charming, rustic, and tiny. Watching the heaping plates of pain perdu (bourbon French toast) pass by, I felt as though I was living in Babette's Feast. The menu offers more variety than that of Moutarde, and the fresh orange juice is honey-sweet. I couldn't decide between the moules frites, palette (bread, egg and vegetable pancake), or the apple cinnamon crêpe. Finally I delighted in a savory egg and cheese crêpe with green salad. However, it wasn't quite enough to sate my legendary appetite, so I gave in to the craving for a warm bread pudding. Dense and eggy, sweet with maple syrup and smothered with melted semi-sweet chocolate, it was a recipe from heaven.

Moutarde: 239 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-3600. Loulou: 222 DeKalb Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 246-0633.

"Dessert Pizza" in the East Village

Crunchy pizza crust smothered with hazelnut-chocolate spread is a wonderful, if unlikely, new trend. At Pie, they serve it open-faced with sliced bananas. At Lil' Frankie's, they stuff it with strawberries and sprinkle the top with confectioners' sugar. I don't know which version is my favorite... I suppose I will have to sample each one many times over!

Pie: 124 4th Ave., (212) 475-4977. Lil' Frankie's: 19 1st Ave., (212) 420-4900.

Crunch Time for Pennsylvania (Or Is That Munch Time?)

The Pennsylvania State Senate is wrangling over a bill that would designate the esteemed chocolate-chip cookie as "the official cookie of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania." Among the bill's arguments: "Pennsylvania is the nation's fourth largest producer of milk, which is the perfect partner to the chocolate chip cookie." I can't disagree with that, but I dare say that if the legislators bit into a chocolate-chunk cookie at NYC's Tuscan Square, they might be humbled into retracting their bill, or at least relocating to New York. The Tuscan Square rendition is a satisfying mouthful of butter, brown sugar, and large semi-sweet chocolate chunks. It's even better when you warm it with your cup of coffee so that the chocolate melts in your mouth.

Tuscan Square: 16 W. 51st St., (212) 977-7777.

Kudos for Kudo! (CLOSED 2009)

Do you long for true flavor in your coffee? Do you savor a sip of java like you would a fine wine? But most of all, do you agree that the popular practice of over-roasting coffee beans robs the beverage of its attributes?

Your antidote to burnt-tasting, one-note coffee is Kudo Beans, an East Village café where all of the cashiers are walking encyclopedias of coffee knowledge. Great beans and helpful employees make for a winning combination. On a recent evening, Valerie recommended a fruity Ethiopian Harrar with low acidity, and Guy informed us of a great deal: buy a pound of coffee and get a half-pound free! All coffees are labeled with detailed descriptions. The café, which owns a roasting facility in Queens, bakes croissants and muffins in-house, but also serves pastries from Mother Fortune.

Kudo Beans has some exciting plans in its future. This Thursday, the grand opening of the store will feature live jazz and free food from 6-8 pm. There will soon be a series of "cuppings and tastings" (for more information, contact info@kudobeans.com), and the 28 wonderful varieties of Kudo Coffee will soon be served at a Times Square bookstore. Look out, Starbucks!

Kudo Beans: 49 1/2 1st Ave., (212) 353-1477.

Grace On The Go (Closed as of June '03)

This gourmet take-away has only been open since Friday, and people are already coming in to say, "I heard the prosciutto and blue cheese sandwich was great; pack me one of those." Today, it was a feat to get past the videocameras, reporters and inquisitive Slopers in order to peruse the offerings. Good food on 7th Avenue is a real event.

Susan Knightly, the charming chef and manager, said of her creamy squash bisque: "This was a lovely year for squash, they were so sweet. Because of their flavor, it was easy to make the soup low-fat; I just caramelized some onions and added some low-fat milk." (I promptly made off with a pint.) Knightly orders her baked goods from Sullivan Street Bakery; their chewy focaccia sends me into seventh heaven. (As of April, Amy's Bread is their supplier of choice.) I ordered a seared tuna nicoise salad with wonderful garlicky dressing, interspersed bites with the aforementioned focaccia, and ended things with a big chocolate-chip cookie. When I go back (tomorrow), I will buy a brick of macaroni and cheese and perhaps a key lime pie.

Grace's is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m, with deliveries at all times. There is a "coffee window" for harried commuters who need those muffins and steaming cups of java on their way to the F train. I know I do!

Grace On The Go: 352 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-2019.

"The Original" New York Milkshake Co. (Closed as of Mar. 06)

Many moons ago, my great-grandparents owned a candy store in Yorkville, where they dispensed all manner of sodas and egg creams to the neighborhood. They imparted their soda skills to my grandfather, who would scour the Lower East Side for the special chocolate and strawberry syrups he used to make the drinks. One of my last memories of him was watching him go to the refrigerator after I had pleaded for one of his sodas.

Now, Scott Marcus is recreating the authentic New York egg cream experience at his new East Village shop. Opened just two weeks ago, "The Original" New York Milkshake Co. is already serving up large doses of comfort by means of grilled cheese sandwiches, milkshakes, malteds, and giant Whoopee pies (courtesy of the nearby Sticky Fingers Bake Shop). This evening, Scott meticulously coached a new employee in the art of the egg cream while I watched. He then set an overflowing, fizzing cup beside me, urging, "Drink it like a beer!" How could I resist?

Scott plans to begin a delivery service of his nostalgic treats in the next few weeks.

"The Original" New York Milkshake Co.: 37 St. Mark's Place, (212) 505-5200.

Wine and Cheese

Excuse my ebullience; I am rather tipsy. A friend just introduced me to the best-kept secret in Manhattan: the $5 wine tasting at Vintage New York. This charming boutique sells New York-produced wines and cheeses. Sitting at the bar, we admired the Siamese cat and allowed our friendly host Isaiah to guide us through the vast wine list. Not content just to imbibe, we accompanied our reds and whites with award-winning Hudson Valley Camembert and Ewe's Blue from the Old Chatham Sheepherding Company. It was quite an experience to smear the buttery Camembert on slices of baguette in between sips of various wines. Isaiah was generous and threw in a free extra tasting, so I took his suggestion and ordered the refreshing Red Newt Riesling with notes of apples, lychee, and tropical fruits.

Preparing to float out of the store, I suddenly glimpsed a plate of chocolate truffles from 5th Avenue Chocolatiere. Why hadn't I noticed that before? An evening isn't complete without a bite of chocolate.

Vintage New York: 482 Broome St., (212) 226-9463. Also located at 2492 Broadway, (212) 721-9999.

Mardi Gras

If you can't make it down to Bourbon Street on Tuesday, I guarantee that one bite of Aunt Sally's Pralines will transport you to New Orleans. You can pick up these scrumptious pecan delights at Martha Frances Mississippi Cheesecake (1707 2nd Ave., 212-360-0900). While you munch, you can learn about Fat Tuesday traditions at the official Mardi Gras Website!

Ah, Popovers...

When I was a child, I ate my first popover at Normandie Farms, a rustic French restaurant in Maryland. The hot, fluffy rolls, airy and rich at once, made quite an impression on me. But it was not until this year that I rediscovered this childish pleasure, and in duplicate! There are two places that dispense this manna from heaven on the West Side.

According to Emmanuel Marais of the New York Popover Company (789 9th Ave., 1-800-POPOVER), the venerable popover was a New England creation of the late 1800's. Now, over 100 years later, Messr. Marais has altered the original popover recipe to produce many delightful variations. Today, he was serving them up in apple, chocolate chip, and banana chocolate chip varieties. Marais has also come up with fun new ways to eat popovers; he stuffs them with strawberries and cream, or apple compote, or even savory fillings like teriyaki chicken. I hope they still have some left for you; I just bought nine of them.

If you're looking for a sit-down meal to which popovers are a delightful accessory rather than the main focus, go further uptown to the Popover Café (551 Amsterdam Ave., 212-595-8555). Eat an omelette or a salad, and keep ordering more popovers with homemade strawberry butter!

Heavenly Deliveries in Park Slope

The inclement weather has transformed my life into a sort of Remembrances of Meals Past. However, although I haven't done as much culinary exploring as usual, I have enjoyed some wonderful dinner deliveries. My favorites in Park Slope are: jerk chicken, spicy brown-stewed red snapper, and zippy ginger beer from Brawta Mini-Café (718-788-4870), vegetable curries and fat samosas from Curry Shop (718-832-7701), smoky chiles rellenos, roast half chicken, and cheese enchiladas from Los Pollitos (718-623-9152), and grilled sardines, crisp spring rolls, and stir-fried wide rice noodles with vegetables and egg from Long Tan (718-622-8444). Long Tan sends coupons to their repeat customers. Now it's time for me to sign off and place an order!

Is Spring Just Around The Corner?

I don't know, but the folks at Minamoto Kitchoan seem optimistic. Gone are the flavors of sweet potato and squash in their seasonal pastries; the Japanese bakery is now offering hanamurashi (cherry sponge cake), white peach jelly, and cherry blossom rice cakes to remind us that spring is fast approaching. But if your tastes are still firmly ensconced in winter territory, you could end a meal at Sushiden NY with the rich pumpkin flan.

Minamoto Kitchoan: 608 Fifth Avenue, (212) 489-3747. Sushiden NY: 123 W. 49th St., (212) 398-2800.

Blue Ribbon Sushi (Brooklyn)

Apparently we weren’t the only intrepid souls to venture out into the blizzard. Blue Ribbon Brooklyn was packed to the hilt with diners, and a line of people occupied themselves by shaking the snow off their boots while they waited to get in. Next door, the new Blue Ribbon Sushi was more sedate, so we bypassed the mob scene and prepared for a dimly lit, romantic evening.

It's the little things that make Blue Ribbon so special: the bowls of white miso that one mixes into the soup to taste, the homemade wasabi, and the soy sauce prepared especially for sushi (“It sticks to the fish,” explained our waiter).

Blue Ribbon offers a truly extensive selection of sushi, including king crab, blue crab, smoked yellowtail, and monkfish liver. The sushi menu is divided into seafood from the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. The specials of the day put me into seventh heaven: ikejima anago was a warm, subtly sweet cured baby eel, and yaki toro was a slice of meaty tuna belly, seared at the edges.

The chawan mushi, a hot egg custard, was a wonderful antidote to the chilly weather, although I was puzzled by the copious amount of crab stick at the bottom of the teacup. A sashimi deluxe included elegant rectangles of melt-in-your-mouth yellowtail, slivers of mackerel dotted with spicy radish, and three silky pieces of salmon on a lemon slice. Instead of the usual tuna or California roll, the sushi combination came with a technicolor avocado/caviar maki. Salmon roe were salty and fresh, with none of the unappetizing sweetness that sometimes mars them.

Stuffed to the seams, we nevertheless made room for a green tea crème brûlée. We then finished off our meal with Choya plum wine, delighting in the real plum floating in the glass. Then it was time to trudge through the snow. Note: As of September 2003, the quality of the sushi at Blue Ribbon Brooklyn seemed to have lost some of its consistency.

Blue Ribbon Sushi Brooklyn: 280 Fifth Ave., Park Slope, (718) 840-0404.

More Hot Chocolate

I was on my way to The City Bakery for the third time this month to try their hot chocolate of the day. Looking in the window, I saw contented people chatting away while they shared delicious pastries. But upon closer inspection, I realized that the counter was being cleared of goodies. The door was locked; I had gotten there too late.

If you also experience this unhappy turn of events, there is a solution: you can make your own flavored hot chocolate at home. A basic recipe is provided, as well as variations like mint and cardamom. There is even a recipe for marshmallows!

A Valentine's Day Dream

My aunt is prone to experiencing vivid dreams, but her latest one takes the cake (or candy)! Last night, a mysterious, handsome stranger showered her with boxes of chocolate marshmallows.

Sometimes we dream about what we wish for. After listening to my aunt's story, I realized that although I could not find her a mysterious, handsome stranger, I could definitely hunt down her desired candy.

On my recent trip to The City Bakery (below), I had made off with a box of stalagmite-sized chunks of Valrhona chocolate and a bag of oversized marshmallows. However, I needed to find a goody that combined both elements. When I headed into the Citarella to-go store today, I spotted the famous Sifers VALOMILK Candy Cups! The "original flowing center" chocolate marshmallow cups, lovingly produced by the same family since 1903, were the result of a happy accident: a failed, runny batch of marshmallows was scooped into chocolate cups to create a divinely messy treat! They are truly a dream, and a dream come true.

Citarella To Go: 1250 Sixth Ave., (212) 332-1599.

Something To Warm Up Your Day...

It is now the time of year for one of New York's most delightful traditions: the Hot Chocolate Festival at The City Bakery! Since 1992, The City Bakery has been pouring steaming mugs of cocoa in flavors of ginger, mango tea, chili pepper, and even beer. Today's flavor was a thick caramel cocoa, slightly sweeter than the dark bittersweet original. I jumped at the chance to add a giant homemade marshmallow, which melted luxuriously into my hot drink. If you're looking for something a little more substantial, check out the amazing salad bar and crunchy-topped macaroni and cheese.

The City Bakery: 3 W. 18th St., New York, NY, (212) 366-1414.

Brick Lane Curry House and Dowel Quality Products, Inc.

Variety is the spice of life, and a variety of spices adds much to one's life! At Brick Lane Curry House, the rust-colored walls are literally painted with spices. The crispy papadums that start the meal are redolent of asafoetida, and rice is fragrant with cloves (and fried onions and parsley). Although I loved my dakshimi (southern) curry, a profusion of peas, potatoes, eggplant, peppers, mushrooms and golden raisins in a rich green coconut sauce, I could have lived on the paneer kulcha. This piping hot, buttery pita bread was stuffed with toasted sesame seeds, parsley and small melted bits of salty cheese.

Brick Lane is extremely vegetarian-friendly; meat is cooked with separate utensils, and independent local farms provide the veggies. The menu is very descriptive; one item is candidly listed as providing "more pain and sweat than flavor."

If you find that you've stuffed yourself as full as the kulcha, head around the corner to Dowel Quality Products, Inc., for a bottle of fennel seeds to improve your digestion. While you're there, you can buy Pakistani rose petal preserves, a rainbow of red, white, green and yellow split peas, preserved lemons and every spice you can think of. But if you seek peace, love, money or a special heart's desire, purchase one of the candles in the shape of human figures. According to the folks at Dowel, a green figurine brings prosperity and a black figurine will grant you that special wish. But if you wish for a nice spicy curry, you don't have to indulge in any fancy rituals: just go to Brick Lane Curry House!

Brick Lane Curry House: 342 E. 6th St., (212) 979-2900. Dowel Quality Products, Inc: 91 1st Ave., (212) 979-6045.

eBay edibles

It was only a matter of time before good meals were auctioned on eBay. Many $25 gift certificates are available for only $1; I just bid on a dinner at Brick Lane Curry House. There are also certificates for DeGrezia, The Palm, and Miss Maude's Spoonbread!

Escape From New York

Trying to dodge this Arctic weather pattern, I flew to Florida. Although it was almost as wintry down there, I did manage to seek some relief at Blood’s Hammock Groves (est. 1949). Blood's distills the essence of sunlight into their incredibly delicious citrus juices. They also offer baskets of whole fruit and condiments such as mango butter and guava jelly. Call (800) 255-5188 for delivery to your New York apartment.

Cookie Island and the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory

Age is a state of mind; if you're looking to regain your youth, you might want to head downtown to Cookie Island and Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory. I felt about five years old as I jumped for joy over the selection at Cookie Island; the only difference was that no one prohibited me from having seconds. I delighted over the almond coconut crunch and peanut butter chip, and I thought I tasted a hint of cinnamon in the chocolate chip.

When I glimpsed the giant caramelized Granny Smith apples in the window at Rocky Mountain, my childhood summers at the boardwalk immediately came back to me. Black forest fudge, chocolate-covered dried pears, deep, dark gooey "killer chocolate" ice cream, and velvet chocolate truffle syrup will certainly provide me with new memories to be fond of. Seventy-five percent of all the goodies are made on the premises; the rich ice cream is manufactured at the Hudson Valley location. Rocky Mountain also custom-designs candy bars and wrappers. Maybe there will be a Salli Vates bar in the future! (In the meantime, you will have to be satisfied with inedibles.)

Cookie Island: 184 Broadway, (212) 608-5937. Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory: 125 Chambers St., (212) 349-7553.

Winter Restaurant Week 2002

Does the end of the holiday season get you down? Cheer up; the fun is not over! Jan. 27-31 is Winter Restaurant Week. This year, you can eat from Aquavit to Zoë!

Happy New Year!

We spent New Year's Eve in the home of the peppermint patty (York, PA). Unfortunately for us, the York peppermint patty factory had moved south, and we didn't have a chance to visit the famed Wolfgang Sweet Shoppe. Arriving back in New York today after a four-hour drive, we were parched as well as chocolate-deprived. So, we were thrilled to discover that (a) Dean & DeLuca was open, and (b) the store was now carrying Cocio, the rich Danish chocolate milk beverage that was heavily promoted at this year's Chocolate Show. This thick cocoa-y treat is not just for kids! Now we feel refreshed and ready to begin the year 2003.

Dean and DeLuca: 560 Broadway, (212) 226-6800.

Financier Pâtisserie

I was still licking my lips over a lunch special at Ise (hearty Japanese winter food: fried scallops accompanied by a dollop of hot mustard, poached tilefish with yam paste, rice balls with fermented soybeans and sashimi garnished with fresh ginger) when I realized that I hadn’t yet bought pastries for Christmas morning. I’d heard that a French pastry shop had opened up two weeks ago nearby, and set about finding it at once.

Everything about Financier Pâtisserie screams “butter”; the light yellow walls, the aroma of baking that wafts through the room and the taste of the madeleines. The madeleines are so fresh that you can taste the single ingredients in turn: rich butter, then eggs, then sugar. A row of buttery, flaky pastries (pains au chocolat, cherry turnovers, almond croissants) sits atop a glass display. If you can tear your eyes away from the croissants, you will notice that the display is divided into two sections. To the right, there are charming bûches de Noel decorated with snowmen. On the left, there is a beautiful assortment of tarts, éclairs and mousses. I was torn between the pear chocolate mousse and the baba au rhum. My internal argument grew more heated until I noticed the chocolate chestnut tart topped with a marshmallow, which promptly found its way onto my shopping list. And what of the Christmas pastries? I think we’ll be enjoying our egg-brushed, plump apple turnovers very much!

Financier Pâtisserie, 62 Stone St., (212) 344-5600.

Daniel - Divine!

I don't even know where to begin. All memories of my dinner at Daniel are coalescing into a single swoon of pleasure. With great effort, I will try to pinpoint the individual stimuli, among them: a special appetizer of creamy risotto with freshly shaved white truffle, a healthy mound of pristine tuna tartare topped with a layer of sevruga and surrounded by radish "petals", a warm tarragon flan accompanying a potato-crusted Arctic char ...wine-braised short ribs so tender that a fork cut right through them... and finally, a mocha Christmas bûche, a molten chocolate soufflé with intensely nutty pistachio ice cream, and petits fours which included holly-decorated chocolates made on the premises. But wait; I must not forget the fresh bread that threatened to spoil my appetite: garlic focaccia, sweet Christmas bread with raisins and powdered sugar, crusty black olive rolls and much more. If you haven't yet been to Daniel, it is time for you to experience one of the places that makes New York City great.

Daniel: 60 East 65th St., (212) 288-0033.

'Tis The Season!

One way to get yourself into the holiday spirit is to drive around Bensonhurst after dark. Entire blocks shine with red and green lights; you will be awestruck by the dazzling array of elaborately festooned houses.

You may also be awestruck by the giant cannoli that adorns the window of Dolce Italia, Ltd. I forgot to ask if it were real, because just then the owner brought out a plate of buttery almond cookies straight out of the oven. He set it down right next to me and my companions, nodding his head at us. I ordered a bag full of sugar-dusted pignoli cookies, cookies rolled in sesame seeds and butter half-moons; when I opened the bag, I saw that a heap of the fresh butter cookies had been emptied into it.

Needless to say, I spoiled my appetite for Romano's. To their credit, the folks at this Bensonhurst legend (est. 1935) did their best to revive my sagging appetite with lemony, egg-battered sole francese and linguini with white clam sauce. The latter must have contained a head of garlic!

Dolce Italia, Ltd.: 7105 13th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 837-2464. Romano Restaurant: 7117 13th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 232-5226.

This Just In...

Are you agonizing over your weekend plans? If you're free this Saturday, why don't you join the folks at Foodevents.com for a culinary tour of Arthur Avenue in the Bronx?

The foodies will visit an artisan of fresh pasta, a maker of homemade mozzarella cheese, and some bakeries with hot semolina breads. The extravaganza will end with an Italian wine tasting. For more information, please call (917) 916-2988 or E-mail info@foodevents.com. Buon appetito!

Thai Tea Time (Closed as of 3/1/03)

The restaurant god has not yet blessed Kensington. (For those of you unfamiliar with the outer boroughs, Kensington is a small neighborhood in Brooklyn that abuts Windsor Terrace.) Church Avenue, the main drag, is a row of groceries with week-old produce.

But if you venture onto McDonald Avenue, you will find a small storefront that is serving up the best food in the neighborhood! Thai Tea Time is owned by Patrick, a Laotian with family in Thailand, and Lynn, a denizen of Kensington. Together they will educate you on the origin of bubble tea (Thailand exported tapioca to Taiwan) while serving it up in such exotic flavors as lychee, passionfruit and kumquat. There are Thai honeydew milkshakes and iced coffee drinks made with sweetened condensed milk.

If you need something more substantial than a beverage, try the cilantro-laden tom yum, a spicy lemongrass soup with your choice of chicken or shrimp. If you like pad thai, you will find plenty of tasty crushed peanuts in Thai Tea Time's version. My pad see-ew was a huge mound of wide rice noodles sautéed with egg, gailan (baby Chinese broccoli) and lots of shrimp. Patrick warned me that gailan was spicy. "Bring on the spice," I urged, and he obliged by presenting me with some whole green chilies to munch on.

While I enjoyed the warm banana custard topped with coconut, I noticed that there was a small selection of Thai groceries available, including grass jelly, do-it-yourself Thai tea powder, and pickled eggplant. But I think I will leave my Thai cooking to the experts.

Thai Tea Time: 359 McDonald Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 436-5344. Delivery available.

Mr. Breakfast

If breakfast is your passion, you may have found your soul mate right here.

Les Halles

A huge snowstorm is forecasted for tomorrow. Since I may stay inside all day, I feel justified in having eaten two days' worth of food this evening.

My dining companion wanted to go to Les Halles because of his special fondness for French fries. Although he will eat anything from McDonald's shoestrings to tater tots, he especially appreciates the crispy, greaseless numbers at Les Halles. Tonight he mixed together a great portion of ketchup and Dijon mustard into which he happily dipped an entire plate of fries.

We began our meals with big tureens of onion soup topped with melted gruyere, and escargots appropriately swimming in garlic butter. I sopped up every last drop of the butter with hunks of crusty baguette.

The main course was a very difficult choice. Les Halles offers a selection of traditional French entrées such as cassoulet and choucroute, as well as a long menu of grilled Black Angus meats including hanger steak with shallot sauce, beef tenderloin, and prime rib. The entrance of the restaurant sports a glass display of rillettes, frankfurters, pâtés, blood sausage, and other meats. My companion ordered a 14-oz. New York sirloin with béarnaise sauce, mesclun greens and fries. I wanted something lighter and enjoyed my simple preparation of dourade. The firm-fleshed fish was grilled with olive oil and salt and served with grilled zucchini. (I was soon to sabotage the lightness of my meal with a great amount of well-salted French fries.)

After a couple glasses of Pinot Noir Rion and Sancerre Blanc, any remaining inhibitions we may have had against ordering dessert soon disappeared. We decided against the profiteroles and crème brûlée in favor of a Valrhona chocolate mousse and a warm banana chocolate tart in vanilla sauce. At this point, the lights had dimmed so much that I could not see exactly how many layers there were in the tart. Judging from taste alone, I gather that there were three: a dense chocolate bottom, a layer of bananas and a sweet dark chocolate ganache. I also finished off the dollop of whipped cream.

Now I'm ready for the snow!

Les Halles: 411 Park Avenue South. (212) 679-4111.

Italian Reverie

I cannot stop thinking about Italian pastries. One of our Thanksgiving guests was a dyed-in-the-wool Bensonhurster who reminisced about her mother's homemade sfingi and zeppole.

As of today, the below-mentioned Blue Apron Foods is offering baked goods from Bensonhurst's own Royal Crown Bakery. Try the rolls stuffed with broccoli rabe, then pick up a package of my favorite commercial biscotti, DiCamillo Biscotti Di Prato. I love to dunk these crunchy, almond-studded cookies in my espresso.

The mailman just arrived, delivering my copy of Mangia! The Best Italian Food In New York City! I think I will take a moment to riffle through the pages now.

Chocosphere (Part 2)

I have it on authority that there will be some exciting new offerings on Chocosphere very shortly. The online chocolate store is in the process of adding three new Dolfin products, including a dark chocolate bar with aniseed and dark squares with lemon. Also, they'll be adding some new Côte d'Or and another "surprise" this week if all goes well at Customs! Keep an eye on their Website this week.

Blue Apron Foods - Say Cheese!

Park Slope finally has its own version of Tuller! I used to envy the denizens of Cobble Hill, but no longer; one visit to this friendly "purveyor of cheese, charcuterie, fine foods" made my day.

Only open since Tuesday, Blue Apron is already filled with smiling patrons. They are buying Amy's Valrhona Oreos, focaccia from the Sullivan Street Bakery, Jacques Torres cocoa and chocolates, Bindi frozen desserts, East Hampton pumpkin tea bread, and much more. What did I come away with? Let's see...a Buonissima tomato mozzarella handmade pizza, Café La Semeuse espresso beans, Vergers d'Aliénor whole dried apricots, Divina kalamata olive tapenade, Vermont Butter & Cheese Company crème fraîche, and finally, raw milk blue cheese and artisanal bufala mozzarella. Say cheese, indeed!

Blue Apron Foods: 814 Union St., Brooklyn. (718) 230-3180.

Ulrika's (Closed, But Still Catering)

I am still warmed by the mug of glögg I imbibed this evening. The mulled red wine, redolent of cardamom and cinnamon, was served with the traditional raisins and almonds. I will try to rouse myself from my reverie in order to describe the rest of the meal.

A friend once opined that people come to New York in order to feel as though they were somewhere else. Ulrika's, a restaurant featuring Swedish and Swedish-influenced cuisine, definitely transported me to another world. It was a friend's birthday, so we decided to begin our celebration with a round of orange peach ginger aquavit. A basket of crispbreads then arrived, as well as a couple of flowerpots stuffed with fresh soft loaves of bread. Afterwards, we inhaled complementary cups of foamy shrimp bisque with sun-dried tomato.

Plates of gravlax were appearing at every table, and we were soon to find out why. The gravlax appetizer was an absolute delight; thick slices of salmon were highlighted with dill, black peppercorns and sweet mustard. For me, this appetizer was the star of the evening. Although I enjoyed my poached cod in clarified butter with chopped egg, I would have preferred more tasty grated horseradish. My companions cleared their plates of roasted duck with truffled mashed potatoes (warning: truffled potatoes are extremely addictive), and an entrée of beef tenderloin with munk (fried donuts of onion stuffing), slabs of grilled bacon, and foie gras. (The latter dish is not for the faint of stomach!)

Then it was time for light soufflés with cloudberry jam, and plättar, thin eggy crepes with blueberries and cream. I don't know whose idea it was to order the glögg, but I am now becoming very sleepy and must retire to bed.

Ulrika's: 115 East 60th St. (212) 355-7069.

Shimon's and Max & Mina's

I love randomly stumbling upon local legends. On a recent Sunday afternoon, there wasn't an empty seat in Shimon's. This kosher pizzeria opened in 1968 and features many non-pizza items on its dairy menu, including salmon croquettes and vegetarian liver! My favorite selections were a flaky hot bureka (savory filo triangle) filled with farmer cheese, and fat, crisp potato pancakes with plenty of sour cream. Greek salad was tasty although lacking in cucumbers, pizza was quite sauce-laden, and a whitefish salad with "everything" arrived covered with tasty tahini and sauerkraut. But it was the bureka which stuck in my mind... next time, I will order one filled with eggplant.

Do you care for your ice cream flavored with lox? Spicy hummus? Or is garlic more your preference? Right next door to Shimon's is a newer legend, the truly unusual Max & Mina's Homemade Ice Cream and Ices. Before you shudder in horror, let me assure you that the magenta horseradish ice cream offers a pleasant kick, and more conventional flavors are also superb. Chocolate ice cream is like a frozen rich chocolate pudding, and freshly brewed coffee ice cream is full of real java flavor. Max & Mina's will please all palates!

Shimon's: 71-24 Main St., Flushing. (718) 793-1491. Max & Mina's: 71-26 Main St., Flushing. (718) 793-8629.

The Chocolate Show

As you approach West 18th St., you may notice the change in demeanor of those around you. Gone are the agitated expressions typical of New Yorkers; instead, you will see the blissed-out grins of chocolate lovers as they dreamily reach into paper bags full of truffles. The euphoria will reach a critical mass as you step onto the red carpet outside the Metropolitan Pavilion, home of the 5th Annual Chocolate Show, New York 2002.

I can barely begin to describe the plethora of delights that await you. There is chocolate to drink (MarieBelle Aztec Hot Chocolate with cinnamon, ancho chile, nutmeg and chipotle), Vermeer Dutch Chocolate Cream Liqueur made with vodka, cream and Dutch chocolate, Cocio chocolate milk from Denmark, and Valrhona hot chocolate. There is chocolate to wear, to admire as fine art, and to bathe in. There are even cocoa butter massages and chocolate psychic readings by Magda the Parisian Psychic. But most importantly, there is chocolate to eat.

I arrived in fine spirits, having just visited Ceci-Cela Pâtisserie (55 Spring St., 212-274-9179). After admiring the sculptures of the Côte d'Ivoire (the world's largest supplier of cocoa beans), I sampled the Caoba (41%) milk chocolate of Chocolates El Rey.

I then admired the cinnamon ginger and almond praline chocolate bars at Bouvier Chocolatier. Philippe Bouvier patiently explained his technique for making ganache as I made my selection. Next, the multi-colored pastel marshmallows of Chez Boissier caught my eye. These handmade marshmallows are almost too beautiful to eat (but I think I'll find a way).

Four years ago, Fritz Knipschildt founded the innovative Knipschildt Chocolatier. Fritz began making chocolates at the age of twelve, trained at a Danish culinary academy for several years, and now concocts such truffles as tangerine red chili (I bought three), lavender caramel, and apple rosemary. I could not leave without a box of fifteen truffles. His exhibit is highly recommended!

At the Institute of Culinary Education, I sampled the buttery "Supernatural Brownies" and made sure to get a copy of the recipe. And my favorite chocolatier, Michel Cluizel, offered samples of three new chocolates that will soon be available, each of them more delicious than the last.

There are many more highlights at this wonderful event; discover your own on Saturday and Sunday!

The Chocolate Show: 125 West 18th St. Saturday 10-8, Sunday 10-6. $15.

Yes, You Can Eat Well Downtown!

It has often been noted that there is a paucity of dining options in the Wall Street area. However, a few bright spots exist among the dubious delis and unrefrigerated salad bars.

At $7 a plate, the Sophie’s lunch special is one of the best bargains in town. (If you happen to venture in after 12 p.m., you will find that the entire population of New York has already discovered this. Therefore, I recommend arriving at 11:45.) Your choice of meat (fried pork chops, breaded chicken cutlet, beef stew, fried fish, shrimp in garlic sauce, etc.) arrives on a giant bed of buttered rice, garnished with boiled yucca and spicy onion salad. As if that weren’t enough, you are also blessed with a separate bowl of soupy beans (pinto or black). I am addicted to the small containers of green herb sauce at the counter.

Another tasty option that is easy on the wallet is Tokyo Lunch. This lunch counter is tiny; don't be surprised if you find yourself accidentally drinking from your neighbor's cup. But without spending more than $6-$7, you can enjoy Japanese dishes such as salmon teriyaki and tempura soba. Afterwards, for old-fashioned boardwalk-style candy, go over to Evelyn’s and ask for a quarter-pound bag of chocolate raspberry marshmallows.

My favorite place to eat lunch is the authentic and delicious Ise, which now has a fancy new location on Pine Street after a temporary stint in the basement of Zeytuna’s. Ise’s sushi is fantastically fresh, and there are several daily lunch specials. My recent lunches there have included a glistening chirashi-zushi topped with salmon roe, hokke, a sea-bass like fish from Hokkaido, accompanied by diced mackerel sashimi and assorted root vegetables, and grilled eel with the requisite sansho pepper. Oishii!

For the best coffee downtown, I recommend the Manon Café, the Europhile java bar located at the Leonidas Chocolate Store. Each coffee beverage comes with a free chocolate (you can choose from white, milk or dark). I am usually tempted to buy extras.

(To learn about how you can stimulate the growth of the downtown economy as well as your girth, visit Downtown for Dinner $20.02.)

Sophie's: Pearl St. location now closed: new location: 96 Chambers St., (212) 608-9900. Tokyo Lunch: 10 John St. (212) 608-1394. Evelyn's Chocolates: 4 John St. (212) 267-6178. Ise Japanese Restaurant: 56 Pine St. (212) 785-1600. Café Manon: 3 Hanover Square. 1-800-900-CHOC.

Olives and Honey

Does the chilly weather make you long for summer? Don't despair; Athens-born George Bourozikas has taken it upon himself to brighten up your day with the Mediterranean sun. Bourozikas, the founder of Olives and Honey, LLC, has recently begun importing two very special olive oils from Greece. Both are organic, and each one has a very distinct flavor. Terra Eolica, produced in Lesvos, is buttery and mild – perfect for pouring over just about anything! Toplou comes from the island of Crete, which enjoys more than 3,000 hours of sunlight a year. The resulting oil is strong and fruity; Bourozikas characterized its taste as "explosive".

Today, the genial Bourozikas could be seen at Sahadi's offering samples of his luscious oils. Charlie Sahadi baked a loaf of French bread for the occasion; we dipped in with abandon. Bourozikas talked of his enthusiasm for a Mediterranean thyme honey that he plans to import, and we all left feeling a bit sunnier.

Olives and Honey, LLC: (212) 460-8332, george@olivesandhoney.com. Sahadi's: 187 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 624-4550.

Basta Pasta

It must be true that carbohydrates are addictive, because shortly after dining at Elio's, I found myself at Basta Pasta. Basta Pasta offers Italian cuisine with a Japanese flair; its chef was born in Tokyo.

My friend and I began with the seared tuna appetizer, a slab of tender, sushi-grade tuna perked up with diced scallions, zesty wasabi mayonnaise and barely dressed arugula. After inhaling this in about 30 seconds, we moved on to the grilled squid appetizer, a salad of white beans, tomatoes and squid in a ginger balsamic vinaigrette.

Although the menu listed many intriguing second courses (example: chargrilled marinated chicken breast with shishito peppers), we suffered from the aforementioned carb addiction and ordered pasta. My spaghetti with tobiko (flying fish roe) and shiso (Japanese basil) arrived in a sauce of butter, clam juice and sea salt. Crunchy pearls of roe coated the pasta, and the shiso leaves provided an astringent foil to the richness of the dish. A classic spaghetti with mozzarella, basil and tomatoes was given a new twist with the addition of shiitake mushrooms.

We somehow found room in our bellies for dessert, and agonized over the decision between almond flan and Earl Grey gelato. The dessert special, a rum-soaked sweet brioche with strawberry preserves and whipped cream, resolved our dilemma.

This carb infusion should temporarily hold us over...

Basta Pasta: 37 W. 17th St. (212) 366-0888.

Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm

The apple harvest is over, but you can still enjoy its fruits at this charming Yorktown Heights orchard. The two large sheds on the premises house Tricia’s Treats and the Farm Market. At Tricia’s, you can feast on apple strudel and drink hot cider. Also of note are the fresh cider doughnuts and steaming hot, flaky-crusted apple pies.

If you prefer to make your own apple concoctions, you can go over to the Farm Market, which sells ten different varieties of apples. The spacious shelves of the Market are also laden with apple butter and apple cider.

The trees that line the Taconic Parkway are in full fall splendor. A nature-lover in my car informed me that the amount of sugar in the leaves controls the vibrancy of the colors. (I certainly feel more vibrant with sugar in my veins as well.)

Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm: 1335 White Hill Road, Yorktown Heights. (914) 245-5111.

“Breaking News” at Elio’s

Although Peter Jennings was sitting at a nearby table, the current event I found most important was the pasta special of the evening: homemade egg fettucini topped with slivers of freshly shaved white truffles. The truffles’ woodsy flavor added a hint of mystery to the luxuriant buttery tumble of pasta. Our waiter, Evaristo, proudly maintained that the butter and truffles were the only seasonings in the dish. “It’s a much different taste than truffle-infused olive oil,” he said. I nodded in agreement, my mouth full of pasta.

If the fettucini with white truffles was a front-page event, the penne with cauliflower merited at least a Page Six mention. Chewy pasta tubes were accented with flecks of anchovy paste and mixed with bread crumbs, cauliflower, parsley and deep green olive oil.

All in all, a newsworthy evening!

Elio’s: 1621 2nd Ave. (212) 772-2242.

Cheese and Crackers

This cold, rainy weather we've been having gives me the munchies. Today I satisfied my cravings with a sophisticated version of cheese and crackers.

I knew that the eminent Agata and Valentina would offer a wonderful selection of cheese, and there was an exciting new arrival: Le Peilloute Goat's Milk Brie from Fromager D'Affinois. I paired the Brie with Pane Croccante (rustic, irregularly-shaped crackers seasoned with basil, garlic and red onion). Now I am quite prepared for a rainy day. You will understand if I don't answer the phone.

(But perhaps you are an NYU student who studies on cold rainy days. I imagine that you rarely venture above 14th St., and that you can't study on an empty stomach! If so, stop by Bites, the tiny take-out at the corner of Bleecker and Lafayette. Tell the friendly gent that you crave a melted Nutella ciabatta snack ($3), walk away happy, and ace those exams.)

Agata and Valentina: 1505 1st Ave. (212) 452-0690.

La Maison Du Chocolat

Some people have friends in high places; I have friends in decadent places. In a happy coincidence, one of them works at La Maison du Chocolat. So, I decided to conclude a recent sweets expedition with a visit to this chocolate salon.

My earlier discoveries of the day were Deep Mountain pure Vermont maple candy (flavors: maple, ginger, coconut, pecan, hot pepper and blueberry) at the Rockefeller Center Greenmarket, and the latest seasonal additions at the below-mentioned Minamoto Kitchoan - kabocha manju (sweet squash cookie) and matcha kintsuba, or fudge flavored with the strong green tea that usually accompanies Japanese sweets.

Although my favorite chocolate bar in the entire world is London's Max Brenner's Chocolate Bar, I found plenty to be delighted about at La Maison Du Chocolat. One side of the shop is reserved for all manner of truffles with enticing names (among them, "Rigoletto", a caramelized buttermilk truffle which truly had me singing an aria). The other side features chocolate pastries and monster-sized "bouchées" (chocolates which are practically as large as a sandwich). My giant "Rocher" praline was a study in contrasting textures: crunchy almonds, silky chocolate coating and a chunky rich chocolate center. I also sampled a wonderfully dense pistachio marzipan bouchée.

I added a 35% cacao "Mérida" (see, those enticing names again) bar to my collection of goodies, and my friend hooked me up with a bag of "samples". Unfortunately, they are now depleted, which means that I must return very soon. Maybe I will try the milk ganache flavored with mirabelle plum, or the mendiants: little treasures of orange and lemon zest, roasted almonds and hazelnuts, and of course, chocolate. Or perhaps I will sign up for a two-hour tasting session with Robert Linxe, the creator of La Maison. (If you are interested in such an extravagance, call (212) 265-9404.)

La Maison Du Chocolat: 30 Rockefeller Center. (212) 265-9404.

Bio-Dynamic Pork

For those of you New Yorkers who live high on the hog, grassfed bio-dynamic pork is now available. The hogs are raised naturally without hormones or antibiotics. The high-quality meat is sold at a price far less than at the Union Square market. Purchase options include traditional salty hams, German sausages, smoked sliced bacon, and maple sausage links. For more information, E-mail Sophia.

The Best Of...

This is the time of year that New York's venerable weeklies reveal their "Best Of" lists. The Village Voice, New York Press and Citysearch dispense much good advice, and listed below is Salli's rather short contribution of superlatives. In some cases, these are not food recommendations, but curiosities.

Best Way to Happily Surprise a Friend
Dessert Delivery (they'll deliver the same day if you call before 3:00 p.m.)
360 E 55th St. (212) 838-5411.

Most Daunting Menu
Sweet-n-Tart Café
136-11 38th Ave., Flushing. (718) 661-3380.

Best Place to Stuff Oneself with Antipasti
Il Mulino (check out those giant stalagmites of Parmigiano)
86 W. 3rd St. (212) 673-3783.

Most Enthusiastic Proponent of Pavé d'Affinois, an Extraordinarily Buttery Soft Cheese
The Cashier at Ninth Avenue Cheese Markets
615 9th Ave. (212) 397-4700.

Most Artistic Meal Presentation
Kai
822 Madison Ave., (212) 988-7277.

Biggest Statue of the Buddha
Tao
42 E. 58th St. (212) 888-2288.

Tastiest Frites
B. Frites (CLOSED, oh well)
1657 Broadway. (212) 767-0858.

Friendliest Sushi Bar
Japonica (they remember your name and offer extra bowls of rice)
100 University Place. (212) 243-7752.

Most Mismatched Chairs
Caffé Rafaella (This location has closed)
134 7th Ave. South. (212) 929-7247.

Most Satisfying Lunch Splurge
Caviarteria (try the "pastrami" salmon) (CLOSED; looking for new location per 6/25/08 phone call)
502 Park Avenue., (212) 759-7410.

Best Place to Watch Gorgeous Yuppies
Park Avalon (CLOSED)
225 Park Ave. South. (212) 533-2500.

Best Fried Oysters
Pearl Oyster Bar
18 Cornelia St. (212) 691-8211.

Most Bizarre Schedule
Ferdinando's Focacceria Restaurant
151 Union St., Brooklyn. (718) 855-1545.

Best Music During Sunday Brunch
Coffee Shop (Brazilian jazz)
29 Union Sq. West. (212) 243-7969.

Most Delicious After-Dinner Biscotti
De Grezia
231 E. 50th St. (212) 750-5353

Greatest Amount of Icing Flowers on a Cupcake
Cupcake Café
522 9th Ave. (212) 465-1530.

Best Place to Celebrate Your Hungarian Grandma's 85th Birthday
Caterina's
316 East 53rd St., (212) 355-5360.

Most Chivalrous Service
Gramercy Tavern (written about below; spectacular food, too!)
42 E. 20th St. (212) 477-0777.

Salli's Favorite Macrobiotic Restaurant
Ozu (try the raspberry tofu cheesecake)
566 Amsterdam Ave. (212) 787-8316.

Best French Onion Soup
La Bonne Soupe
48 West 55th St. (212) 586-7650.

That's all, folks! All this typing is making me hungry!

Beyond Teriyaki

Recently, a dear friend of mine spoke of her fondness for Japanese food. "I love chicken teriyaki, beef teriyaki," she maintained. But as you may know, the infinite variety of cooked Japanese and Japanese-American foods goes way beyond teriyaki!

If your stomach is growling while you walk through Midtown on a late afternoon, you might stop by Café Zaiya. Like Yagura, the adjacent Japanese grocery, it features assorted cooked items. Today, the buffet included fried almond-encrusted shrimp, broiled whole pike mackerel, simmered autumn vegetables in a soy sauce, and batter-fried Chilean sea bass. The boxed meals of the day were una-don (eel over rice) and nikujaga (Japanese beef and potato stew). Some items on the regular menu are spicy cod roe spaghetti, tempura udon, and tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet). Try to save room for the intriguing desserts, which range from green tea madeleines to chestnut mousse to an man (steamed rice flour buns filled with sweet red bean jam)!

Café Zaiya is a bustling little place; if you would like to relax in more of a drawing-room ambience, head over to Ya Bowl. Mien Eto, the pleasant owner, told me that her intention with Ya Bowl was to open a place where people could actually relax in the middle of Times Square. She manages to achieve the impossible in a cozy room that recalls the charming cafés of the European-influenced Harajuku section of Tokyo.

As you can presume by its name, Ya Bowl specializes in one-bowl meals. On a recent visit I enjoyed the fresh water eel simmered in sweet soy sauce, garnished with shredded egg and pickled ginger. Also on the menu are a Korean barbecued beef bowl and a chicken cutlet curry. Ms. Eto raved about her desserts, but I had already eaten dessert before lunch that day (shame on me)!

As we come into cooler weather, I also enjoy inhaling a big bowl of steaming hot noodles at Soba-Ya, with toppings as diverse as sardines, fried tofu, mountain vegetables, and shrimp tempura. Across the street, Otafuku offers artery-clogging takoyaki (six chunks of fried dough with octopus) and okonomoyaki, a fried eggy pancake which is filled with seafood and cabbage, and then covered with bonito flakes and mayonnaise. Further downtown, there is the recently opened Win49, which compensates for its lack of seating (2 stools) with its varied assortment of tasty items. Among the delights here are many different bento boxes with fried cutlets and yakitori (Although this is a column about cooked Japanese foods, I must also note that Win49 offers a $6.50 chirashi-zushi (scattered sashimi over rice)!

In summary, you have many options besides teriyaki, so start eating!

Café Zaiya: 18 E. 41st St. (212) 779-0600. Ya Bowl: 125 W. 45th St. (212) 764-3017. Note: Ya Bowl will be closing at the end of July '03. Soba-Ya: 229 E. 9th St. (212) 533-6966. Otafuku: 236 E. 9th St. (212) 353-8503. Win49 (Closed as of 2006): 205 Allen St. (212) 353-9494.

Vegetarian Dim Sum House

This relative newcomer to Chinatown is decorated with illustrations of the Buddha. After finishing a large meal, I wondered if I resembled an incarnation of the fat, smiling god.

All edibles are strictly vegetarian, although you can also order various fruit milkshakes. I enjoyed a mango milkshake while I took in the formidably long menu. Braised "chicken" with lily flowers? Or sweet and sour "fish"? Finally I decided on the vegetarian mock shrimp dumplings, the hot and sour soup, and the lemon "chicken". The dumplings were gelatinous rice flour pockets stuffed with rice and chewy "shrimp". A very tasty and sour soup was served in a gigantic bowl, full of bits of red chili, tree ears, large chunks of tofu, and scallions. After polishing these appetizers off, I attempted to tackle the lemon "chicken" made of Chinese yams. The "chicken filet" was served in a pleasingly tart lemon sauce, but seemed to taste more of potato than chicken! But no matter; I left happily stuffed, feeling like I had at least contemplated nirvana.

Vegetarian Dim Sum House: 24 Pell St. (212) 577-7176.

Bakeries: Balthazar and Sullivan Street

Whoever says that man does not live by bread alone has never visited the Balthazar Bakery or the Sullivan Street Bakery (Note: The original location of Sullivan Street Bakery is now Grandaisy Bakery. The quality is still excellent.)

Just one bite of the pain au chocolat at Balthazar alone disproved this theory for me! But of course I didn't stop there. After admiring the various tarts, I ordered the unctuously rich chocolate cajeta (Mexican goat-milk caramel) tart, a buttery scone, and one of the best chocolate-chip walnut cookies I have ever tasted. A Brie sandwich was perfection: a chewy, butter-slathered baguette generously topped with Brie. Sun-dried tomatoes were a delightful accent in the pain bagnat, which also included the usual hard-boiled egg, black olives, lettuce and tuna. In another nice touch, the slices of fresh tuna were seared and crusted with black pepper.

You may wonder how I made it over the Sullivan Street loaded down with so many goodies! Well, I managed. At Sullivan Street, I tried the legendary tortino di cioccolato, basically a glorified (and glorious) brownie, as well as two different kinds of cheeseless pizza; potato and mushroom. In each case, the vegetables were very thinly sliced and redolent of olive oil and herbs. Sullivan Street also offers a wonderful crusty olive loaf.

Balthazar Bakery: 80 Spring St. (212) 965-1785. Sullivan Street Bakery: 73 Sullivan St. (212) 334-9435.

An Apple A Day...

According to WebMD, an apple a day indeed keeps the doctor away. All the more reason to visit Fauchon right now: the Park Avenue location is featuring a celebration of the fine fruit. Interspersed among the various goodies in the display are bits of apple-related trivia; for example, did you know that there are over 15,000 varieties of apples?

If you are an apple aficionado, here are some of the delights that Fauchon (Note: NYC store closed) has in store for you: Normandy cider vinegar, Pippin apple juice, green apple tea, apple bonbons, Golden Delicious apple preserves, apple compote, and sparkling apple quince juice.

If apples are not your cup of green apple tea, then make sure to try the macarons in chocolate, chocolate raspberry and pistachio. There are also pastries of all sorts, sandwiches, chocolates, pâtés de fruits, marzipans, and one of the most creative arrays of condiments that I have ever seen. The condiments include an entire shelf devoted to mustards in exotic flavors like cocoa, Roquefort, and violet. And don't miss the milk jams.

Fauchon: 442 Park Ave. (212) 308-5919.

Chocolate Overload

Yesterday, my internal compass pointed straight towards "chocolate". I was first led to Park Slope's Beso (CLOSED as of Dec. 2007), which served a sublime chocolate crema catalana. This huge bowl of dense cocoa mousse was accompanied by a hot, eggy cinnamon churro (fried donut). Powdered sugar drifted from the churro into the cool chocolate cream, and I swooned with pleasure between each bite.

A couple hours later, of course, this blissful memory had faded, and the next leg of my journey began. The aforementioned compass led me to the Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland store at Rockefeller Center, where chocolates are prepared in Zürich and flown to New York every week. I admired the various truffles in flavors of orange, cocoa, almond, walnut, kirsch, and nougat. There were also dainty chocolates shaped like animals. My admiration soon surpassed the visual as I bit into a large chunk of dark chocolate marzipan.

Continuing northward towards the Upper East Side, I couldn't pass by Neuhaus without walking in. This Belgian chocolatier has been delighting patrons since 1857. I entered the shop under the pretext of buying a gift, but I found additional reasons to be there once inside! Among them, dark chocolate-covered orange peels: sunbursts of citrus flavor enrobed with some of the deepest, richest chocolate I have ever tasted, and crunchy cacao nib-studded dark chocolate squares. The truffle selection included a cognac buttercream covered with thin almond slices and a classic chocolate buttercream sprinkled with cocoa powder.

My compass does not lead me astray, wouldn't you agree?

Beso: 210 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 622-9894. Teuscher: 620 5th Ave., Rockefeller Center. (212) 246-4416. Neuhaus: 922 Madison Ave. (212) 861-2800.

Brunch at Max Court (Closed)

You may wonder, “Is it still possible to get a satisfying brunch in Brooklyn for $4.95?” I must inform you that the answer is a resounding yes!

Yesterday, a friend and I were hungry and hot, walking around Carroll Gardens. We weren’t having any luck finding brunch; Panino’teca 275 was inexplicably closed, and Copper was being renovated. But I knew that an oasis of yumminess was right around the corner, so I smiled knowingly when my friend wondered if our final destination would be worth the journey.

Enter Max Court, the charming restaurant that seems as though it were your Italian best friend’s apartment. Our host showed us to a lovely garden festooned with Danesi parasols. Although the temperature was in the 90s, several fans cooled things off in the garden.

My friend gasped at the low prices on the menu. A frittata of potato and white onion went for $5.95, while our choice, the mozzarella in carozza, cost only $4.95. The rich egg toast, oozing with melted mozzarella, was accompanied by a large portion of rosemary-roasted potatoes and a big mesclun salad with plum tomatoes. Other items on the brunch menu included eggs scrambled with pancetta, mozzarella and parmigiano, and uova ripiene, hard-boiled eggs stuffed with sardines, olives, capers and mustard.

We lingered enjoyably over our cappuccino and tiramisú, as no one rushed us.

(My friend remarked that Rosewater charged twice as much for brunch while delivering half the amount of food. And recently, I have found the service at Rosewater particularly inhospitable, especially when I am dining alone. So for a tranquil, equally tasty Sunday brunch, I recommend going the extra mile to Max Court!)

Max Court: 395 Court St., Brooklyn. (718) 596-9797. Delicious brunch available Sat.-Sun. 11-4.

Pessimists Eat Pickles

An intriguing article just made me aware of the perfectionism of Doritos eaters and the joie de vivre of those who prefer vanilla ice cream. What is your food personality?

Brunch at the Palace Hotel (and Japanese Treats)

My mother remarked that in New York City, some of the finest meals can be enjoyed at hotel restaurants. So, we decided to brunch at Istana in the Palace Hotel. (Le Cirque 2000 can also be found at this location.)

Although not cheap, the prix fixe breakfast includes an all-you-can-eat dessert bar. I greatly enjoyed my plate of smoked salmon, decorated with a "blossom" of brioche toast points. The "pistil" of the flower was a dollop of red pepper crème fraîche topped with a small portion of osetra caviar. Also satisfying was a tomato scallion omelette served with a watercress salad and fried oysters. The star of the show, however, was the dessert buffet. All desserts are baked on the premises; today the array of sweets included a butterscotch pudding, two types of chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, fig tart, lemon-lime meringue pie, black bottom crème brûlée, fruits in Grand Marnier with whipped cream, and petits fours. Many desserts were adorned with summer fruits; strawberries, raspberries and blueberries.

I decided that I needed a little exercise after this indulgence, so I strolled over to Minamoto Kitchoan, the excellent Japanese bakery. (A few days ago, I was surprised to see a branch of this delightful shop on Piccadilly in London.) Many sweets are seasonal; right now, I can recommend the imo kintsuba, sweet potato fudge. There is also a hakuto jelly, which is like the freshest essence of a summer peach. I rounded out my purchase with a couple tsuya, pancakes filled with sweet red bean paste. In London's Kitchoan, you can sit down and enjoy afternoon green tea with your treat; I hope that the New York store eventually offers a table for this activity, although I am not optimistic (we just don't know how to relax in this town).

I was so full after all of this that I had no room left to sample some acarajé (bean fritters) or cachaça (Brazilian sugar cane liquor) at the 18th Annual Brazilian Day Festival on 6th Avenue. I guess I'll have to wait until next year.

Palace Hotel: 455 Madison Ave. (800) NY-PALACE. Minamoto Kitchoan: 608 Fifth Ave. (212) 489-3747.